Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Kenneth Jay Lane Couture Rings - Fashion Design at Its Best by a Living Legend

!±8± Kenneth Jay Lane Couture Rings - Fashion Design at Its Best by a Living Legend

Rings by Kenneth Jay Lane show his ingenuity and design talent. One can always recognize a ring by KJL because each piece is imbued with finesse and originality as well as artistic use of color. Mr. Lane has been called "the hottest designer" (Elle Magazine) and a "living legend."

He has exercised his creative imagination to its fullest since 1963 when he started out in New York City selling his designs on the street in the fashion district. He knows many socialites, movers and shakers, and international celebrities, and has designed for them and with them in mind. Yet his creations are accessible to everyone. His book Faking It tells his story.

Unlike much of the fashion or costume jewelry on the market today, every piece in KJL's Couture line is made here in the USA by skilled artisans. He has developed a special method of gold and silver plating that never discolors, tarnishes or leaves dark marks on your finger.

Many fashionistas love big rings with sufficient surface to embed detailed designs. Would you enjoy wearing a curious zebra or a toothy tiger on your finger? How about a realistic crystal-encrusted bumblebee? Or a many-petaled peony with a lush pearl center. KJL also designed a stone-covered coiling snake ring with ruby eyes reminiscent of jewelry worn by Cleopatra.

Over the centuries, rings have communicated the wearer's status, taste, and wealth. Stacked rings have been perennially popular, and in the past jewelers tapered the shanks in the back so that rings could be comfortably clustered on the same finger.

KJL admirers and collectors include the Duchess of Windsor, Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Onassis, Mica Ertegun, Mischa Barton, Jennifer Lopez, Paris Hilton, Paula Abdul. A bejeweled belt he made for Jackie O brought a record bid of ,000.00 at auction. Rings he designed 30 years ago are still in demand and considered collectible.

Here are some ring facts to think about while enjoying some KJL eye-candy. Surprised that a ring has shoulders and may wear a girdle?

The parts of a ring:

Bezel or head: the top of a ring into which stones can be mounted or set into separate holders called collets.

Collet (kohl-ay): receptacle for stones which can be either cup shaped or made from metal strips bent to shape.

Hoop or shank: the part that goes around the finger.

Shoulders: the part that joins the hoop and the bezel, frequently decorated. Most of KJL's rings have stones or other embellishment in this area.

Cuts of stones:

Cabochon (CAB-oh-shaun): a stone with a polished, domed upper surface and a flat back. Also called a "cab". 

Facet: the face of a stone cut and polished.

Girdle: the widest part of a stone. (Makes sense, huh ladies?)

Brilliant-cut: introduced in the 17th century, has an octagonal table at the top and 58 facets above and below the girdle. By far the most frequent cut for diamonds and precious colored stones.

Cushion-cut, princess cut, marquise, emerald, pear: all are types of stone cuts.


Kenneth Jay Lane Couture Rings - Fashion Design at Its Best by a Living Legend

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Thursday, December 8, 2011

All About Pearls - Natural Versus Cultured Pearls

!±8± All About Pearls - Natural Versus Cultured Pearls

Pearl Facts

Pearls consist of calcium carbonate or CaCo3 held together buy conchiolin, the organic substance that forms the outer layer of an oyster shell. The pearl's outer coating is called nacre, a lustrous, smooth surface built up in many layers over time. A pearl is very soft with a hardness of 2.5 to 4.5 so it is easily damaged by dropping or contact with harder substances, perfume, skin oils, or cosmetics. You should clean your pearls with a soft cloth every so often. Keep them away from dust and dry heat when not wearing them.

Pearl mania reached its height during the Roman Empire. Cleopatra wagered Marc Anthony that she could serve the world's most expensive meal, whereupon she crushed a huge pearl and added the powder to wine which she drank. He conceded.

Unlike gold, gemstones, and other precious substances, the pearl arrives in perfect condition ready for use.

The priceless Merman Pendant in the Victoria & Albert museum, London, contains a huge pearl that may have come from a 100-year-old oyster.

Natural Pearls vs. Cultured Pearls

A natural pearl is an accident. A speck of foreign matter--a grain of sand, a microscopic sea creature--lodges in certain internal parts of an oyster or mussel. The oyster deposits layers of nacre in order to make the foreign matter harmless.

Until the end fo the 19th century, the only pearls on the market were naturals, and they were priceless, reserved for royalty and extremely wealthy people. Queen Elizabeth I of England swathed herself in pearls. It is rumored that she had Mary Queen of Scots executed in order to obtain Mary's pearls.

A perfect 6mm (1/4 inch) pearl would take about 5 years to form. The larger the pearl, the longer it takes to form. Millions of pearls have been lost because no one dived for them.

Cultured pearls result from the intentional implanting of a grain of sand or nucleus of pearl shell or an actual pearl into the living oyster. This is called nucleation. The oysters are then suspended in water (fresh or salt) so they can start making the pearl.

Not every oyster can produce a gem pearl. Centers for pearl culturing are Japan, Australia, China, and Polynesia.


All About Pearls - Natural Versus Cultured Pearls

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Sunday, October 30, 2011

Where Do Your Cultured Pearls Come From?

!±8± Where Do Your Cultured Pearls Come From?

Origin of Cultured Pearls

Kokichi Mikimoto, son of a Japanese noodle vendor, single-handedly changed the pearl landscape forever by discovering the best way to produce them artificially. He and his wife struggled in the 1890's to learn the best materials and methods for nucleating (implanting) oysters, disregarding the ridicule of Japan's pearl experts. In 1908 he patented the world's first cultured round pearl.

However, naturals were the most desired gem in the years between WWI and the stock market crash, and women bought all the natural pearls they could afford. The stock market crash and the subsequent pearl crash devalued the high prices of naturals (sound familiar?). Naturals never regained their market share. WWII throttled pearl production, creating huge demand for cultured pearls in the postwar prosperity years.

At its height Mikimoto Company had more than 12 million oysters producing 75% of the world's cultured pearls. The Mikimoto name has been synonymous with very high quality.

The company found that the best luster and appearance occur at.35 millimeters of nacre, and Mikimoto pearls are thicker, since they were left longer in the oyster. The more luster, the higher the value. Perfect round shapes are more valuable than oval or irregular shapes.

BIWA Pearls

Around 1935 pearl experts found that a pearl will form around a piece of soft tissue introduced from another mollusk. These pearls have no artificial nucleus inside. The resulting pearl has an unpredictable flat, pointed, or button-shaped appearance. Coin pearls are also the result of this process. Their luster is excellent. They were first cultured in Lake Biwa in Japan. The name "biwa" indicates the absence of an artificial nucleus.


Where Do Your Cultured Pearls Come From?

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